It's an obscure one, and spoken by a total nobody in the movie (young clerk at a surf shop) but it kind of sums up the surfing philosophy.
I've never been surfing, and I'm sure I'm too old to learn how now, but I like watching it. I really want to go to the North Shore of Hawaii and shoot pics like this:
Is that insane, or what?
I mean, that's like a what, 25 or 30 foot wave?
I can see myself just hanging out at Pipeline, taking pictures like this all day.
Now, all I need's money for the trip to Hawaii....
Donations now being accepted.
Buenos con queso,
T.
5 comments:
There's always Mavericks, off the coast of Half Moon Bay. Much closer and cheaper than Hawaii!
http://www.theage.com.au/ffximage/2008/01/13/13surf1_gallery__600x393.jpg
I've heard of Maverick's, although I've only been to Half Moon Bay once. I'm not sure how far out the break is, but it would prolly be doable.
Of course, that doesn't change the fact that I want to spend some time in the Islands....
I volunteer to carry your camera bag for you!!
that is one helluva pic - i would love to be there... not in the water, but shooting the pics too! ;) nice.
Q: You're hired.
Kelwhy: I know, right? Can you imagine trying to surf something like that?
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